The Essex town that’s a a riot of vernacular architecture and craft

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Saffron Walden sounded, we thought, like the plucky heroine of a children’s book set somewhere historical and horrid, say a pilchard factory or workhouse. She’d be kind to animals, with a little forelock that kept coming loose (to the constant exasperation of Matron); and when she heard of the landlord’s dastardly scheme to swindle the local florist out of her inheritance, she’d be tough and resourceful in her pursuit of righteousness.

In fact, as regular readers will be unsurprised to hear, it’s a market town we think you’d enjoy paying a visit to. But there is something strange about it, something arty and dreamy, something that goes beyond the half-timbering and the enamelled iron street signs…

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